Yves Saint Laurent SS17: Anthony Vaccarello Debut PFW

September 29, 2016 ,
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by Evelina Mavrides
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Anthony Vaccarello chose his debut show to take place in the impressive surroundings of a palatial building site—a former monastery, later a military headquarters, which has been derelict in the heart of Paris and is now being restored as the Saint Laurent headquarters. The whole background worked for Vaccarello as his way into the House, “It’s a work in progress,” he said at a preview. The image of transition was very big under these circumstances, since Vaccarello took the job after the recently vacated Hedi Slimane, and considering the commercial success of the former creative director has to have a lot to do with scale of the investment Kering, Saint Laurent’s parent company, is sinking into this stunning renovation. It should be pointed out that, Vaccarello’s new position is an opportunity for which he closed his own line, to concentrate on the responsibility of reimagining whom the Saint Laurent girl might be. “She’s certainly not bourgeois or classic,” said Vaccarello. “She has a huge respect for Saint Laurent, but not in the first degree. So I thought of her taking a vintage dress and cutting into it.” Particularly, that dress was a puffed-shouldered number from an 80’s Yves Saint Laurent collection (of 1982), and a black leather version of it opened this show. Vacarello’s aesthetic touch & glamorous sexiness was very obvious too, (probably) largely triggered by Slimane’s parting shot last season. When Slimane kicked off an era of sex and rock and roll for the brand when he took over in 2012, the clothes sold incredibly well. So it makes sense from a business perspective that the house would want to build on that rather than start with a completely blank slate. Taking a spin on 80’s and the logomania of that era, there was a pair of heels spelling out “YSL” and earrings to match. It’s too soon to tell what kind of a leader he will be, but judging from his debut we consider a very good one

 

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